The initial garage door opener consisted of a radio transmitter, an actuator as well as a receiver to open or shut the door. There was a safety worry with these kinds of garage door openers.
This is extremely important! As a home-owner, your home in Dallas may be your most valuable asset by far, right? You may even owe hundreds of thousands of dollars still on your mortgage. (This is written primarily to home-owners, so if you are the owner of a commercial building in Dallas, then the same issues will apply to you except probably with much larger dollar amounts.)
Before you install the drywall, temporarily remove the brackets that support the garage door tracks and opener. This will make it easier to install the 4-mil poly and ceiling drywall and will result in a neater-looking job. Start by carefully measuring and recording the position of the tracks and opener. Measure from the nearest wall and from the floor. Then close the garage door, lock it closed and unplug the opener to disable it. Unscrew or unbolt the brackets that support the garage door tracks and remove them. Also remove the garage door opener brackets and support the opener on a ladder. It may be easier to entirely disconnect the opener and set it aside. Reinstall the garage door track brackets using a new section of angle iron on the ceiling. Attach each new ceiling angle iron with four 5/16-in. x 3-in. lag screws driven into the center of the ceiling joist or into wood blocking that’s screwed to the adjacent ceiling framing.
You may have to drill holes through studs or through the top plate of walls to reroute wires. If so, be sure to center the holes on the stud. If the plastic-sheathed cables are too short to reach the next box when you reroute them, you can add a junction box and splice on a length of cable. The new box must be accessible either in the attic space or through a blank cover on the wall or ceiling.